Removing what should never have been there in the first place.
Most cars that arrive here have swirl marks they didn't earn. We measure, correct only what's safe, and refine until the finish reads true under any light.
One-stage or two-stage, decided after measuring.
Before we cut a single panel, we measure clear coat thickness with a digital paint gauge. If the paint can take it, we recommend two stages. If it's thin (factory respray, repainted panels), we go one stage and finish with a fine polish.
Either way, the work happens under halogen swirl-finder lighting along both bays. You can come and watch the corrections appear, panel by panel.
The process
- MeasurePaint thickness logged on a panel diagram. Anything below 90µm is flagged for caution.
- DecontaminateIron fallout removal, tar removal, full clay-bar treatment. The compound has to bite into clean paint, not contamination.
- CutHeavy compound on a microfibre or wool pad to remove the deepest swirls and oxidation.
- PolishMedium polish on a foam pad to remove cutting marks and bring up gloss.
- RefineFinishing polish on a soft pad to leave a hologram-free, true-to-paint finish.
- InspectHalogen swirl-finder check, every panel signed off before sealant or coating goes down.
Pairs well with
- Ceramic coating — the correction is wasted without protection. Most clients book the two together.
- Carnauba wax — a softer protective layer for drivers who prefer a warmer-looking finish.
- Two-bucket maintenance washes — the only way to keep a corrected finish swirl-free.
"You can correct paint perfectly and ruin it again with one trip through an automatic tunnel. Maintenance is half the job."
Send a few photos. We'll tell you what's possible.
Phone photos under sunlight are usually enough for a first read. We'll respond with one-stage or two-stage and a price.
Get a correction quote